Republic of Moldova

Republic of Moldova
National Flag of the Republic of Moldova

Monday, September 4, 2017

New Site, New Anxieties, and New Opportunities


      Hey folks. It’s Clayton (AKA Bill, according to my new friend Domnul Alexandru) out yonder in Vorniceni, Republic of Moldova. I’m a Peace Corps Volunteer now. What have I been up to you ask? Oh just adjusting to that #satlyfe (sat=village) through a classic cycle of general anxiety. But things are starting to roll, now that I’ve stopped taking naps every afternoon from sheer mental exhaustion. Let’s back up a sec, so yall can see why I needed those naps (other than the fact that I truly, sincerely appreciate naps on a professional level).

      August 16th, 2017 I swore in as a Peace Corps volunteer. That was pretty neat – I even got this shnazzy pin to wear that makes me look super profesh.



      But for real, it was a beautiful ceremony, held in the heart of Chișinău. An all-around celebration of our partnership as countries, we sang our national anthems in front of our Pre-Service Training (PST) host families, as our families back home watched live. Fellow volunteers danced popular Moldovan dances in cultural costumes. Finally, we were wished the best of luck from government officials – Moldovan and American alike – as the true journey began.

      Saying goodbye to the great friends I met during PST was surprisingly challenging. PST was similar to the iconic summer camp, with all the expected adventures, field trips, drama –  and romance of course – that any good old 80’s American summer camp B-movie would include, and Swearing-In was the big finale talent show.

      As we all loaded our 16 bags each, plus fire extinguisher, water filter, and all the knick-knacks we spent too much on into tiny cars, Rutieras, and 8-passenger trucks (whoop whoop, lucky me!!), there was the sense of relief – we made it through the awkward, inexpressible times of PST, and were finally off to be volunteers – although half of us forgot what that meant by this point.

      So there I was, heading to site with my counterpart, attempting to converse with a science teacher from the Lecuel in the back seat of this monstrously comfortable truck. I think all I managed to say was, “Da, alți voluntarii a căsătorit oamenii din Moldova în trecut,” in my awkward attempt to dodge that question. Yes, I’m really going to make you open a new tab and google translate that phrase. No, I haven’t bookmarked it yet, but I probably should. OK you caught me, I am doing it right now (awkward).

      And within the time of that tangent, I was at site, scuffing my suit jacket as I haphazardly pulled my backpacking backpack out of the truck bed. I had an additional nervousness upon my arrival, as my host family was changed under short notice; thus I was one of very few volunteers who didn’t know who they were about to live with, or where they were going. I imagine my shoulders would have sunk into a relaxed position from my sigh of relief upon meeting Domnul Victor Bradu, had they not already been smushed downward by my clumsy attempt to carry multiple bags. Domnul Bradu helped me to my room, let me unpack a bit, and then gave me the grand ole tour. Afterwards, I attempted to unpack more, then decided to test out my new futon. Then the panic ensued.

      You ever look at a new ceiling for the first time, and realize that not only will you never see the old ceiling again, but you know nothing about this ceiling – whether its drafty, spidery, or too reflective? Fast-forward 9.42 seconds (a few plăcinte’s worth) and you’re remembering that not only do you have your first day of work in the morning, where you will be speaking in a language that you only began learning 10 weeks previously, but you also have only met four people in this village for a total of three days, all your friends are gone, you don’t know how to cook the local food (or where to find it), and you’re on side two of your last clean-ish pare of chonies. I knew I was looking at the ceiling, but I didn’t really see it. I didn’t see anything. I just felt. I felt that overwhelming, sudden rush of electricity that comes from the tips of your fingers and toes, straight to the dome-piece, in a fashion where you would expect to shiver, but instead your face goes pale, as you say to yourself:
  h o l y    c r a p.

      Queue the pacing endlessly, wondering where to start; queue the clenching of the chest when you know it’s just your anxiety taking a physical form, but you can’t help but ponder the thought that one day something might actually be wrong; queue the migraines – the expected, anticipated yet unstoppable wave of auras that grow in my eyes, pausing at maximum height, like the moment before the roller coaster drops you – and then, the drop; alas, queue the naps.

      For a week and a half I napped every day after only a few hours of work. I thought to myself, “I’m never going to integrate in the community like this; I have to get up, but I’m not ready. I need time.” I didn’t need time, I needed people – I had too much time.

      Over this time I didn’t dive into the community as much as I had wanted. I had a great time visiting a neighboring village with my partner, mayor, and his wife; I met a lot of great people that I am incredibly excited to work with; I watched two amazing dance groups prepare for Ziua Independenția. Yet I knew that in my heart I hadn’t had a moment that made me feel like this was going to be my community, my home. And gosh, do I miss home.

      Finally, a Saturday coming up. I needed to reset, relax for a moment. Hadn’t had water for three days – of course I found this out after a surprisingly vivacious trip to the veceo.  Maybe if I get some socks, underwear, and maybe a book or two, I’ll at least feel like I can handle some of this other-worldly adulting.

     6:46am I was on a Rutiera to Chișinău. I met Hannah to eat some breakfast before we headed to piața central. The moment I saw her, I already started feeling better. A friendly face can do wonders in an unfamiliar land. Better yet, a beautiful face that you truly endear can give you that reasurring feeling that you’ve been gasping for: home. Finally. a deep breath.

      We spent hours looking through books in the library, stuffing our bags with anything that let us grasp onto our cultural comforts for a moment. Getting lost in the piața, I accidentily made crude hand gestures when trying to ask for help finding the right size of underwear. After finding our way out, new sock and underwear in hand, we hit the grocery store, and looped back to our breakfast spot for a good-ole sit-down as we awaited our Rutieras home. I remember sitting there after what many would consider an average day of errands, thinking, “this was one hell of a day, and I am so happy I could spend it with you.”  After such a challenging week, it’s the simple things that make us feel normal, or at least comfortable, and maybe – just maybe – like I can actually do this. Thank you for giving me this extraordinary feeling.

      Feeling recharged and ready jump in, Sunday I helped set up for Ziua Independenția. Well, “help” is a relative term. I held the ladder, as everyone else did the real work – I just showed up, smiling. There was a man by the name of Domnul Alexandru, wearing a cowboy hat and making jokes – what a hoot’n a half. He told me of the former volunteer, whom he could not pronounce his name, so he just called him Batman. When he started introducing me as Bill, I briefly thought of saying, “screw it” and going by Joe, but then I thought, “Mmm better yet, I’d rather not.”

      Domnul Alexandru kept asking me if I was going to something that evening, but with my lack of language all I could express was, “I have no clue what is going on but I think I want to go.” I was ready to dive in.

      As I arrived at our meeting place that evening, I started to piece together what the heck was going on – or at least with whom I was going with. I was with the local popular dance crew, heading to Roșcani. This was obviously lost in translation, but I was not disappointed.

      As we exited the Rutiera, I could see people dressed in traditional Moldovan costumes all the way up the road. Walking up to the festival grounds, I saw a traditional popular band playing as people began to dance, I thought to myself, "This is it. This is why I’m here.” Soon after, I was pulled in to hora. As I began to get the hang of it, someone shouted, “el este Moldovenesc acum!” I could not wipe the dirt-eating grin off my face the rest of the night.

      We sang the whole ride home. Yes we – well I attempted; I don’t quite have the yoyoyoyoyoyyy’s down yet, but I’m working on it. The whole group was so happy that I went, and invited me to join again.

      After the best weekend I could ask for, I was finally more excited than nervous to get to work. The concept of time is a funny thing in the Peace Corps; I was supposed to take a quick trip to the preschool/kindergarten to take pictures of kids playing in their newly renovated classrooms. I wound up helping the little ones down the slide and playing tag for about two hours. Oops! But how could I say no to this little dude?




And the rest of the week has been similarly rewarding. Peace Corps has been incredibly challenging at times, especially at this very beginning period, being new to my village, but the people who have welcomed me have helped me enjoy the little things in the midst of this panic. Now, I’m on that up-and-up. Knowing myself, it would be a lie to say I won’t panic again. But now that I’ve seen a glimpse into what will be my community, I know its possible feel at home here. Especially with my new dance family; after repitiți last night I think I accidentily joined the team. I wonder how long it’ll take me to replace my „yee-haw’s” with „yoy-yoy-yoy-yoy-yoy-yoy-yoyyy’s” – I give it three more practices max. That’ll be the day.

Saturday, June 24, 2017

One Week In..



...and the ups and downs keep coming! I have been sleeping a lot this week, but it's now Saturday and I am about to enjoy my first day off tomorrow! To recap a little, here are some observations from the week:

6/14
I began intensive language training and technical training. Four hours of Romanian followed by four ours community delvelopment training. Other than class I think I just slept? Too long ago to remember. Although I found out my host family listens to kiss FM so thank goodness for Rihanna and Shakira. They are my rocks as I navigate this new world. I am living with a lovely local family that does not speak any English with me, so I am being quickly integrated. 







6/15
Cynthia helped a goat get unstuck from barbed wire! Also we discovered two more magazines (stores) in our village! Our village is the smallest of the training villages, and can feel a bit isolating at times, but as we adventure into new parts of the village we learn of more exciting places to purchase delicious chocolates.








6/16
Our group met the other Peace Corps Trainees at hub for the first time since we left the hotel. There were plenty of exciting exchanges and you couldn't tell we'd all seen each other five days previously. We will see how those interactions change weekly.

Surprise shots again: Typhoid and Rabies. No mom I didn't pass out, and yes I laid down for them. My friend Andre and I keep winding up getting shots together; they're a little more bonding than other shots I've had.

What's better than surprise shots? Diarrhea! Yes people are already getting giardia, and yes I'm still going to eat the cereşi right off the tree, but we have now been briefed thoroughly on why we will all get diarrhea at some point during service.


After our lovely hub sight discussions, our group stopped by a store to pick up some things not available in our village. I have been yearning for some mouth wash, but I'm here for the full experience so I purchased the Russian mouthwash. After translating, it's supposedly for inflamed mouths or something, but it's got a picture of a tooth on it so I went for it. Turns out it was not spearmint but rather pinecone and soap flavored. Mmmmm.




Of course our bus never showed up so we were flexible and took multiple buses back to our village. On our walk home I saw some folks walking their cows down the strada (street) by my house, they seemed like pretty nice cows.

I was home late and my host mother told me she was worried. That's when it sunk in that I'm in The Republic of Moldova, a former Soviet state, and my host mother was my age when the Berlin Wall fell.

6/17
Today it's continuing to sink in as I hear personal stories from Soviet times. There's a difference between reading about history in books that are so easily detachable, but to feel the memories from the eyes of those who lived those stories, and continue to fight through today's struggles is both inspiring and bone-chilling. A moment of emboldened passion occurred during these conversations when I looked down at my Google translate app to see the words, "ne descurcam (we can handle it)" and I knew she was right.

This week has been full of realizations, small victories, a lot of unexpected challenges, and a daily experience of shoulder-shrugging, thinking "really??", and diving into the unknown head-first. And now, for some time to let it sink in.

Thursday, June 22, 2017

Day Two of Training

6/13
Wowzers was that the point of no return, from a fairly nice hotel with running water, snacks all the time, and the utmost comfort of being surrounded by English speakers, to complete and thorough confusion and a little too large of a crutch on Facebook messenger to maintain my daily grasp on the idea of functional language usage.

I moved into my host family's home on Sunday 6/13 and have been existing on vişine, chereşi, şi Google translate since. Also there's this puppy named Moți, who rolls in dirt and is adorable. We really get each other.

My host family is a couple with a son working abroad and another 17 year old son waiting to depart. He has expressed interest in me teaching him English so I'm hoping that will help us bond. The mother works in a similar field to my Community and Organization Development Program and I am hoping to bond on that commonality as well as learn more about such functions in the small Moldovan village setting. I still don't know what the father does and we don't speak much, but they seem comfortable with me as they lounge with our twelve cats so it's a solid start.

The house is very comfortable and clean, which is a large sense of pride here in Moldova. My room is on a second floor overlooking two joined rolling hills where I enjoy the view of farmers harvesting grapes for wine among other produce. Cherries, tomatoes, cucumbers, and potatoes are large here, and it is currently cherry season; so current that right now I am eating chereşi (sweet cherries, pictured below) while sitting next to the vişine (sour cherry) tree. We have also eaten a lot of chicken and fish lately, so I'm counting the days until I get to watch a chicken get butchered.

Language class has been absolutely exhausting the last two days, going four hours in the morning with two breaks. Yesterday I napped after class and today I napped at lunch. It's not good for my time adjustment but it's good for the soul so I'm not worried about it.

Our first technical training was today and it was a pleasant break to speak in English for a while. It's interesting how such an expected thing becomes a challenge overnight, and to such an extent that other challenges like training seem far more achievable.

After technical training I had tea (ceai) with my host mom and she said my language is improving... this was my first win! I'm still overwhelmed with the language but a slight improvement is all I need to know I'm getting somewhere!

Afterwards I watched my host brother play futbol with some other kids from the village. It was fun to watch kids have fun on the new field at the school, although the intermittent ploaie (rain) was an entertaining obstacle.

To make today the best day so far, I took my first bath since leaving Colorado, and it was the epitome of a perfect bath. Hot, comfortable, and so cleansing after a long day. As confusing and uncomfortable this language barrier may be, today was a win for me thanks to my host family. Mulƫumesc pentru toate.

Tuesday, June 20, 2017

Waiting to Meet My Host Family

6/10
We've been in this 80s style hotel next to Transnistria for a few days and we've all become comfortable with our existence right before we depart for our host families. The weather has been I bit humid but sunny and beautiful. The food has been a little too comforting, as I've eaten amazing pastries and hearty meals about five times a day-i don't know if this is how all trainies have it but I'm feeling quite pampered.

The Dniester River, across from the hotel in Vadul Lui Vodă
The best moment occurred yesterday during a cultural dance with some locals. We watched them dance to drums, a trumpet and an accordion to polka and similar dances. At the end we all danced together, and I had the honor of dancing with the shortest oldest lady in the circle. We all smiled and laughed, and it was one of those moments when I really appreciated that I get to experience more of the culture starting tomorrow.

I will be moving into my host family site tomorrow, which is only a little terrifying. The not knowing what to expect, and the initial awkwardness are neither dreadful as the thought that we absolutely will not communicate effectively whatsoever for the the foreseeable beginning of our time together.

New Site, New Anxieties, and New Opportunities

      Hey folks. It’s Clayton (AKA Bill, according to my new friend Domnul Alexandru) out yonder in Vorniceni, Republic of Moldova. I’m a...